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Category: Amiga

CDTV Remote

 
 

CDTV Front panel

Front panel cables can be replaced with a JST-PH 2.0mm pitch connector.

Desolder the shielding and connector for the infrared PCB.

 
 

CDTV PAL RF/Video Card 390891-02 REV.A

 
 

CDTV Midi interface 252626-01 REV.A

 
 

CDTV Main PCB Rev 2.3

The front panel connectors (CN14,CN15,CN16) can be replaced with a 10 pin JST-PH (2.0mm pitch) connector. Desolder the old connectors by removing one pin at a time.

Some of the capacitors have large ground planes which can be a bit tricky to desolder.

 

Electrical Shock Hazard

Work should not be attempted if not having experience with
powersupplies and understanding the dangers with it.

 


Low ESR, high temperature(105°) and well known manufacturer capacitors should be used.

 

The CDROM-unit will need a recap sooner or later, here is a list of capacitors and pictures of the PCB where you can see locations and orientation of the capacitors. When handling the main PCB, pay attention not to alter the potentiometer settings for the laser by mistake.

For a mechanical fixup of the CDROM unit, go here.




Note: Some CDROM Units have the C206 polarity reversed, mine was not reversed and I kept it that way. More information may be needed on this specific issue.

 

This is a guide to disassemble and reassemble the CDROM (CR-511-B) in the Commodore CDTV.

My CDTV had issues reading CDs and I had to yank the caddy to get it to eject the disk. The grease in the mechanics had hardened so everything had to be cleaned and relubricated with silicone spray and grease.

For CDROM-unit recap, go here.

All parts will move out or into position without any type of force. When handling the main PCB, pay attention not to alter the potentiometer settings for the laser by mistake. I have put some hot glue in the gap between the eject button and the frame to remove stress from the button.

 


Remove 4 screws.
 
 

Remove 6 screws.
There is a spring for ejecting the disc in the back end of the lid, it will jump out of its position but is (rather) easy to put back when reassembling. Additional pictures of reinserting the lid can be found below. Before final reassembly of the lid, clean the laser lens.
 
 

With the lid off, turn the two black rails inwards and lift them up. These need to be completely cleaned from the old grease. Same goes for the corresponding parts in the assembly. When reassembling, reverse the process by inserting the rails in 45 degree position and turn them outwards, back into position. You may need to lift or lower the rails a bit for everything to fit together.
 
 

Remove the screw behind the eject button and release the spring, the unit moves backwards and can be lifted out. When putting it back together, you will need to turn the lever (large circle) for the unit to drop into position. Clean and regrease all parts.
 
 

Remove screw, release spring and clean.


 
 

Remove the three screws holding the laser pickup assembly. Make sure not to loose the metal bushings.
 
 

Disconnect the cables. The one marked with “NOTE!” has a locking clip. When disassembling remove it last and when reassembling insert it first. This will give you a bit more room to wiggle with it, be careful though.
 
 

Clean rails and gears. Use electrical contact cleaner on the switches.
 
 

Turn the unit upside down.
 
 

Remove 6 screws holding the PCB. The PCB rests on the rear part of the frame and need to be slid out (or in when reassembling).
 
 

Use electrical contact cleaner on the switch.
 
 

Disassemble and clean the eject-mechanism.
 
 

Lid reassembly.

Put the other leg of the spring in the notch on the lid. Slide that leg into the spring holder in the rail(black) and move the lid backwards and let it drop into position, this might take a few tries.

I have a bunch of Amiga powersupplies and to be on the safe side I decided to go through them all and give them a recap. Some capacitors had bulged and some others leaked so it was about time to get it done. It is also a good idea to check the solderjoints on the PCB while at it. There are also line-filter capacitors on the boards which should not be neglected, some ( especially RIFA ) are prone to release out the magic smoke. Low ESR, high temperature(105°) and well known manufacturer capacitors should be used.
 

A replacement powersupply (ATX / Pico PSU) or retrofitting them with Meanwell PSU is probably a better choice, I just wanted to refurbish these to be useable when needing an extra 🙂 . Ian Stedman has a good Amiga power supply guide where you can find more information.

 
 

Electrical Shock Hazard, Do Not Open.
No User Serviceable Parts Inside.

Read the warning label on the powersupply.

Work should not be attempted if not having experience with
powersupplies and understanding the dangers with it.


A600/A1200 Powersupply 391029-03 (5V@3.0A 12V@500mA -12V@100mA)
Original capacitors are Low ESR.


A600/A1200 Powersupply 391029-03 (5V@3.0A 12V@500mA -12V@100mA)
A500 Powersupply 312503-03 (5V@4.5A 12V@1A -12V@0.1A)
This model two resistors which go hot (by design), both are 47 Ohm 1% 1/4W.


A500 Powersupply 312503-03 (5V@2,5A 12V@1.0A -12V@0.1A)

 

A500 Powersupply 312503-03 (5V@2,5A 12V@1.0A -12V@0.1A)